We had wanted to visit this volcanic region earlier in the year but were unlucky with the weather. This time the weather was clear and cool, the first winter snows were forecast in a few days. Probably the most famous walk in New Zealand is the Tongariro crossing. Recent activity had closed the full crossing so it was a there and back option. I added the summits of Mount Ngauruhoe and Mount Tongariro. I left a bit of skin from four fingers coming down Mount Tongariro. We added the summit of Mount Ruapehu. This was a surprise because the summit area was closed but when we got close we saw a ranger removing the notices not to go any further.